Chum Line Tackle

Posts Tagged ‘surf reels’

Choosing the Right Rod and Reel

The variety of fishing gear is endless. Dozens of reels to crank when the clerk isn't looking and dozens of rods to twitch without hitting another customer.

   Here's what I do: before I go into the sport shop I decide what I am going after. And I do just that. But, aside, I usually end up with cans of to-die-for pretzels and elk jerky, too.

   Picking the right reel for the job is easy if you know what fish species you'll be going after. I'm lucky, I use the same rod and reels for bass, walleye and yellow perch.

   I prefer a spinning reel over the baitcaster. That's what I grew up with and that's what feels best in my hand. I also like the control it gives me when casting and fighting a fish.

   Most freshwater fishing is easily done with a spinning reel but what about size? How big or small of a reel should I purchase for my next trip to Lake Erie?

   Reel manufactures like to assign numbers to their products. The number usually denotes its size. The larger the number, the larger the reel.

  Look for reels with numbers such as 200, or 2000, 2500 or 3000 (my choice). These reels are prime sizes for most river and lake fishing. Larger reels such as 4000, 4500 or 5000 usually denote saltwater reels, made for 8, 9-foot rods for surf or pier fishing.

   There is one exception to this rule, I've found. And that's the size of the fisherman who will be using the reel. A large man with big hands might think a 2500 Shimano is too small to operate. Then obviously go with a larger reel.

   Price-wise, it's a jungle out there. Reels can cost anywhere from $10 up to $600. I've never owned a $600 reel and probably won't. I tend to stick in the $60-$120 range.

   When you pick up a reel read the information on the box. It will tell you a lot about what's inside. Reels with more stainless steel ball bearings will likely last longer, but cost more.

   But price and longivity go hand in hand. Buy a $60 reel and you might have to purchase one every two years. Buy a $120 reel and it might last four years. In the long run, the cost is the same.

   Generally, spool your reels with 8-12-pound test line.

   Now that you've decided on a reel let's stroll over to the rod rack. It's here that I spent the most money. I want strength, sensitivity, light weight feel, quality guides, a real cork handle and a reel seat that won't cut into my hand. Keep this in mind and you will choose wisely.

   Some manufacturers still offer fiberglass rods, but most turn out varying grades made of graphite and other binding materials. Why graphite? It's strong, light and sensitive. Take care and it will last 5-10 years.

   Choosing the length of the rod is pretty much subjective. Some anglers like a shorter stick, while others want more tip to fight their fish. If you can afford it buy both and you'll know soon enough what's right for you.

   As I indicated earlier, I am sold on the smaller reel such as a 2000 Diawa or 2500 Shimano spinning reel.This size is perfect for a 6-foot or 6'6" rod.

   Unless you are sold on a custom built fishing rod, stick with well known companies like Berkley, Fenwick, Zebco and Shakespeare. Bass Pro Shops and Cabela's also offer some good stuff under their name.

   As with reels, the more you spend the better the equipment. It's up to the individual to decide what's best for his/her budget.

   Under the weight of a fish, A good rod should always have a gentle curve from near the handle to the tip. This means the weight is being distributed equally up and down the shaft.

   So, when I go shopping I take along a one-pound weight tied to some fishing line with a snap swivel on the other end. When trying out a rod, snap the weight on to the tip's eye then lift slowly and observe the curve. If there isn't any, the rod is too stiff. If the rod tip goes to the floor, the rod is too limp. You want something in between.

   All rods are marked as to their strength. Look just above the handle and you will find some writing. Letter "M" mean a medium rod; "MH" means medium-heavy; "L" light. You get the idea.

   Remember, though, a Zebco medium probably won't be the same as a Berkley medium. Check it out.